Destination · Amsterdam

Amsterdam

The easiest of these places to reach, and the easiest to get wrong. Almost everyone sees the same four square kilometres and leaves thinking that was the city.

Amsterdam canal houses, quiet luxury weekend

Three days here can be spent entirely inside the postcard: the canal ring, the queue outside the Anne Frank House, a boat with a glass roof and a recorded commentary. It’s a pleasant enough version of Amsterdam and it isn’t the one worth flying for. What follows is the city we go back to — residential canals, a market before it fills, and four hundred years of merchant history sitting in plain sight on every gable. Three ways in. None of them complete.

01 — The Selection

Three ways to read the same city.

Quiet, tree-lined residential canal in Amsterdam, moored boats, no crowds

Itinerary

Amsterdam, Away From the Water You Know

Jordaan on the Friday, Noordermarkt before nine, De Pijp for dinner and the free ferry north. What we actually do when we’re back.

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Amsterdam canal houses with warm lit windows reflected in the water at dusk

Culture & Design

What Amsterdam Hides Behind Its Front Windows

Curtains stay open, houses were taxed by their width, and Dutch design was never Scandinavian whatever the algorithm says.

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Amsterdam canal with near-perfect still-water reflection of houses, birds overhead

Sensory

Amsterdam at the Hour the Water Goes Still

The ten minutes most evenings when the canals stop moving, and what the city sounds like once they do.

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02 — Recommended Stay

The Dylan Amsterdam, boutique canal hotel on the Keizersgracht

Boutique hotel

The Dylan Amsterdam

The site has been in use since the Keizersgracht was dug in 1613, first as the Duytsche Academie — the city’s first theatre. It burned in 1772 and was rebuilt. The bakery added in 1787 now holds Vinkeles, the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant, with the original ovens left where the restoration found them. It has only been a hotel since 1999. The courtyard is the reason to stay rather than the canal frontage — you can’t see it from the street, which is rather the point.

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