Corsica

Seven dinners in a fortnight, from 54 to 200 euros for two. One crossed 120 euros, and it was the only one we would not book again.

The citadel closes completely at the end of summer 2026, the two meals worth the detour are outside the city, and Grand Capo has a counter-current.

Calvi’s citadel is free and open at sunset, and Sant’Ambroggio is the easy beach that contradicts everything else we learned on the island.

Three places at 137 to 240 euros a night, one refusal, and the only large hotel was the refusal. Sort by number of rooms, not by category.

240 euros a night for two near Ajaccio, in a house that lets four rooms. The terrace looks over the car park, and the place is completely silent.

No road reaches Girolata. Three ways in, from a thirty-minute boat stop to a seven-kilometre walk, and only one lets you choose when to leave.

The best beach here is at the bottom of the worst road, Capo Rosso saves half its climb for the way back, and the best meal of the fortnight cost 54 euros.

Scandola is skirted, not entered, and Lavezzi gives you thirty minutes ashore. Three costed boat trips, and the four questions to ask first.

Thermal water at 38C for 7 euros, a twenty-minute limit the owners publish themselves, and a five-hour power cut with no fallback at all.

One car at Vardiola on 22 August, Rondinara packed and charging 6 euros. What the south coast costs, and where the free beaches actually are.